Gibb River Road

- May 21, 2018

Manning gorge

A longer than normal stop in Broome over 6 nights meant we were well rested for the next leg travelling the Gibb River Road. The Gibb is a 700km stretch of unsealed road that stretches between Derby and Kununurra east of Broome. It has a reputation to be fairly hard going, however with a booming number of grey nomads hitching their vans and a thriving local tourist industry, I suspect the economics stack up for the government to ensure the road is passable and well maintained. We found it pretty tame with just a few sections of bumpy road corrugations.

No speed - long drive!

That said, covering such a large distance on dirt meant a fine layer of Kimberley dust covering everything we own. Meh, we expected it. ‘Embrace the pindan’ was put to us by a mate, how right he was!

Pindan is in the air... everywhere you look around

If the red dust was only on the outside...

One of many crossings on the Gibb

The sun eating our dust near sunset

We started our Gibb adventure in Windjana, the first gorge and range said to be a coral reef some 1.8b years ago, an era preceding complex life itself. A short walk into the gorge provided access to a freshwater crocodile habitat, where we saw plenty of ‘freshies’. For the unacquainted, freshies are non-predatory to humans, so unless you tread on one, you’re unlikely to be in any danger. They’re just not designed to take down large animals like their saltwater cousin. Kids loved it.

Rock formations at Windjana on dusk

Ready for the first of many gorge adventures!

The iconic Boab tree

Windjana Gorge

Residents of Windjana Gorge

Next we drove further off the Gibb to Tunnel Creek. Not really knowing what to expect, we were pleasantly surprised that it was a 750m long creek that had carved itself a tunnel through the range, and involved wading through sections of shallow creek in complete darkness. Equipped with torches, we loved our adventure and the kids once again bravely took up the challenge. The tunnels became famous in the late 1800’s when an aboriginal leader and ‘outlaw’ used the tunnels and caves to hideout whilst being sought by the local constabulary. He was eventually caught and executed by an aboriginal tracker.

Tunnel Creek

Creepy shadows

Stalactites in the spot light

Light at the end of the tunnel

We then drove to Silent Grove and Bells gorge, the first of many spectacular waterfalls and swimming holes on the Gibb, accessed by walking and clambering up, down and through some fairly challenging rock sections. Swimming in these deep freshwater swimming holes is spectacular and well earned.

On our way to Bells Gorge

Bells Gorge

Galvans Gorge - A small but beautiful gorge with an old Boab Tree on the top.

We stayed in Mount Barnett Station next and walked to Manning gorge the following day. It was 5km round hike through a number of gulley’s in pretty intense heat. Once again we were rewarded with a beautiful waterfall and refreshing swim.

Our hike to Manning Gorge started with a river crossing

It was a very long and very hot walk.

But so worth it!

Yippekiya!

Much happier after a swim!

The rest of the afternoon was spent driving to our next stop at Home Valley Station. It had recently re-opened after the wet season and they gave us a free night meaning a welcomed 4 nights without the tedious daily set-up and pack up. It was a beautiful oasis with lush grassy camping, restaurant and a stunning pool.

Shallow water crossings are common driving the Gibb. The exception was our trip to neighbouring El Questro Station where travelling into their self-named gorge the water lapped up over the bonnet for a few nervous moments. Definitely not for the faint hearted.

All the walks into the gorges involved non stop clambering

El Questro gorge

Taxi

Thermal hot springs was a highlight at Zeebedee and Emma gorge a fun climb on our way out. Most poignant during our Gibb adventure was the fact that each location was spectacular but also so unique. What an amazing part of the country, definitely a Handley highlight!